# Sunday, August 17, 2003

The Big E

So many people have asked many different types of questions about my trek up Mt. Everest (starting after TechEd on August 30th) that I decided to do a brain dump here. Ken Getz's sister asked two important questions here:

* How do people go to the bathroom when tied down to sleep on the mountain?

* How do people cook stuff up there? Like how do they boil water for coffee? Is there like a platform to cook on?

 

My answer:

Well you are not actually tied down, the tent is “tied in” to an anchor so if there is an avalanche or massive wind, the tent doesn’t blow away. So here are the options: 

  1. There is the notion of a “pee bottle”, I can leave it at that. J
  2. If you have to do the other, you can just go outside and risk it, but if the wind is strong and there is a really high grade of steepness, you can put on your harness and rope on in to an anchor.  

Cooking is always a challenge at high elevation. At the lower elevations you use portable camping propane stoves that porters or sherpas carry. At higher elevations, it gets really hard to cook with propane over 18,000 feet (the magic elevation for a lot of reasons since at 18,000 there is exactly ½ the oxygen in the air then at sea level. This is why most major base camps for major mountains are at  <18, 000, Everest is at 17,600 for example.)  So you don’t cook much over 18,000 feet, but at the same time you also don’t spend that much time at that elevation, you really use base camp as a “base” not because it is on the base of the mountain. You eat a lot of packaged foods and energy bars. Usually for coffee/tea at higher elevations, you use a thermos. We have some thermoses that can keep coffee/tea hot for 24 hours. 

I bet you also want to know how to shower and clean our clothes. Clothes are simple, we boil water and then when it cools wash our clothes in a bowl each night and hang it do dry, we wear the “quick dry” athletic gear so it dries overnight. Showers just don’t happen, so we wash also with those bowls and at lower elevations set up a little “wash area” like in the military and shower under a watering can type of thing.  

What is funny is that a lot of people walk around base camps in their underwear and flip flops during the day-because they are doing laundry, I know I always do. If you hike fast and get there in the afternoon, it is warm and your clothes are sweaty. If you want to sleep in clean clothes (no time for laundry in the AM before hike), you have to wash in the afternoon and hang all afternoon. So a lot of people wash everything they have dirty, including the clothes on their back.

Also, Kevin and I are going with Wally Berg, super famous Everest dude (see his world famous NatGeo photos here. He is also getting married on the trek at Namche Bizarre, look for my photos and bolog entries after the trek.) Wally has summited about 6 or 7 times and was the guy who took the GPS up in 1989 and they reevaluated Everest's height based on his readings. Wally's recomedation gear list besides the ice axes and crampons type stuff for us to bring are:

FOOTWEAR 

 

q       Running Shoes  - for travel & easy walking

q       Hiking Boots - leather with sturdy mid-sole and a vibram sole. ½ or ¾ shank, boots should be warm and fit well over light and heavy sock combination.  Fit is much more important than brand.  Take time to select a pair that fits, and break them in well. (Asolo, Merrill, Scarpa Delta M-3, Sportiva TRK)

q       Gaiters – Short, simple gaiters are best (Outdoor Research Rocky Mt. Low) Gore-Tex gaitors are not necessary.

q       Sport Sandals – Excellent in camp during evenings when worn over wool socks, Perfect for living in tea shops, Sherpa lodges and for visiting monasteries.  (Teva)

q       Down or synthetic camp booties - optional luxury, any brand with thick foam soles

q       Lightweight Socks - 3 pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Wigwam, Fox River)

q       Heavy Socks - 3 pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Smartwool, Bridgedale, Wigwam, Fox River)

 

CLOTHING 

 

q       Lightweight Pants - 2 pair (any brand Supplex or “stretch woven” pants).

q       Lightweight Long Underwear Top  - (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)

q       Midweight Long Underwear Top - Zip T- neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers.  (Patagonia Capilene, North Face, Mountain Hardware). 

q       Lightweight Long Underwear Bottom  - dark colors are preferable. Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op.

q       Midweight Underwear Bottom - dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op). 

q       Briefs - 4 pairs synthetic or cotton.  Running shorts also work well for underwear.

q       Short-Sleeved Shirts - 2 synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work.  (North Face Tek Ware, Patagonia Tech Dri, or any brand of PowerDry).

q       Fleece Pullover or Full Zip Jacket-  (Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear, ArcTeryx).

q       Fleece Pants -  Polartec 100 or 200  A good alternative for fuzzy fleece for this layer is Mountain Hardware Chugach Pants.  (Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear, ArcTeryx). 

q       Down Insulated Jacket - Medium Weight, Hood Recommended. (Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardwear).

q       Waterproof/Breathable Jacket & Pants - jacket must have hood, pants must have full-length side zips (ArcTeryx, Marmot, Mountain Equipment Co-op).

 

 HEAD & HAND GEAR

 

q       Liner Gloves—Lightweight Synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch).

q       Windstopper Fleece Gloves – (any brand of Windstopper fleece).

q       Mittens w/ pile liners - Outdoor Research

q       Bandanna -Traditional Cotton, 2 or 3.  Very important item, large size is best.

q       Sun Hat - any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor

q       Wool or Fleece Hat - any brand of warm hat that can go over ears

q       Balaclava – Should fit underneath your wool or fleece hat or be thick enough to be worn alone. 

 

 ACCESSORIES 

 

q       Sunglasses -1 pair High quality 100% UV 100%IR.  For general use, travel and lower elevations

q       Glacier Glasses - 1 pair High quality 100% UV 100%IR min 80% light reduction, side shields are optional, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum protection from bright light on snow.

q       Headlamp w/ spare bulb - AA or AAA battery powered (Petzl or Black Diamond)

q       Spare Batteries – bring plenty for reading in tents at night

 

 CAMPING GEAR 

 

q       Backpack - 2500 cubic inches or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s rucksack style is best.  Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets.  Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. ( Dana, Arc’Teryx,  Gregory)   

q       Sleeping Bag – 0 to negative 10 degree Down 700 fill minimum (Marmot, Mtn Hardwear, Moonstone)

q       Water Bottles - two 1 quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles) 

q       Pee Bottle – Optional. One 1 quart, leak-proof wide-mouth (Nalgene Poly or Lexan bottles)

q       Pee Funnel for Women Optional (Freshette)

q       Pack Towel - Small or Medium size (PackTowl).  Do not bring “terrycloth”, Bandanas work in a pinch

q       Trekking Poles – Recommended. Useful for going up and down trails of the Khumbu.  (Leki 3-section)

q       Swiss Army Knife - Remember not to leave in carry on bags for any international or domestic flight

 

 MEDICAL & PERSONAL

  

q       Sunscreen - SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (Dermatone or Terrapin)

q       LipscreenSPF 30 or higher, any brand

q       Toiletry Kit—t.brush, t.paste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small)

q       First Aid Kit - ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, Neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might be prescribed by your doctor. (Antibiotics, diamox, malaria meds, sleep aids)

q       Large Trash Compactor Bags For waterproofing some items inside your duffel.

q       Zip-loc bags  - always useful

q       Baby wipes

q       Earplugs  - Very useful for sleeping in tent and lodges. Available in most hardware stores.

  

TRAVEL ITEMS

  

q       Expedition Duffel Bag – Important.  Large one with strong zippers.  Wild Things “Burro Bag” North Face, Eagle Creek, Patagonia Black Hole.

q       Small Travel Bag – or second duffel bag.  For storing travel clothes and personal items at the Hotel in Kathmandu

q       Nylon Stuff Sacks – 2 or 3, for organizing, light colors preferable for labeling

q       Clothes for Kathmandu and International Travel 2 –3 three changes depending Comfortable simple travel clothes.  Evening in Kathmandu can be slightly cool in autumn and spring.  Bangkok is very hot.

q       Work-out clothes and/or bathing suit simple and versatile, for hotels

q       Passport Belt/Pouch

q       Small Padlocks - for locking duffel bag(s)

q       Book(s)

q       Journal

q       Camera

q       Film Be sure to keep in your carry on luggage, in clear zip- lock bags so that it can be inspected.

 

 

posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 3:45:23 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [4] Trackback
# Saturday, August 16, 2003

I am sitting in my office at Corzen in Union Square, having just brought the servers back up. It has been a long 40 hours or so.

 

Thursday 4:11 pm. Corzen’s Office @ Union Square

 

I am oddly sitting in the server room working on a staging server when all the Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPSes) start to chirp. I know that only badness will follow. About 30 seconds later, the power goes. Everyone is calm since we are in a very old and has a power outage every once in a while. So my business partner and Corzen’s CEO, Bruce Murray and I decide to go and get a few beers at the local bar to wait it out.

 

Thursday 5:00pm. Park Bar @ Union Square

As more people start to filter on in the bar, we realize that this is bigger than we thought. At first we thought it was just local to our building, then our general area, but then we heard about Canada and such. We immediately thought terrorism (we are New Yorkers) and ran back to the office and plugged a TV into a UPS and saw some CNN. We decide to all walk home, Bruce and Bob Plummer (our director of Indicator Services) both live in Brooklyn, so they left for a 5.5 mile walk over the Brooklyn Bridge.

 

Thursday 6:30pm. West 57th Street

I finally get home. Being the CTO, I was the last to leave the office and it only took about 45 minutes to walk home. Since it was mobbed with people and about 94 and humid, I was drenched. (I also had tix for a bway show that night, so I was dressed not in my typical shorts and tee shirt.) I peeled off my clothes and showered with all the windows open in my apartment for light. After my shower I was making some phone calls to my teammate Tom Halligan (who was in Long Island WITH power) and his wife stuck home on 11th Avenue without power and my buddy Richard Campbell in Canada for information. I get hungry around 8pm and go out to look for some food.

 

Thursday 9:45pm. East 89th Street

So my quest for food brings me to the east side where I actually hook up with my running partner and walk her home (she was walking home alone and I had a flashlight.) After I drop her off I walk down 5th avenue, all along Museum Mile and to my disbelief, I see stars! Yes total constellations, like I was in the woods. I can hear the crickets in Central Park. It was so strange just walking home in such darkness. When I mean pitch black, I mean pitch black. When I get home to my building there was a little party going on, cheese and wine set up, and chairs. Talked about my Everest trip with my building owners (who are Everest junkies and climbers themselves) and I helped a bunch of people up the stairs with my flashlight (good Everest training.) When I was done, I climbed the 14 flights to my apartment and went to bed.

 

Friday 4:14am. West 57th Street

I was awaken by the sounds of the power turning on! I turned on my AC and thought that the worst was over.

 

Friday 6:00am. Engineers Gate, Central Park

My running partner arrives and she is still without power. The whole east side of Manhattan is still without power. We run and it is nice and cool. When I get home I realize that just about 75% of the city is still without power. My phone goes out and the cell phone is spotty, very spotty. Bruce calls me and said that power is still not back in Union Square, don’t even think of coming in until it is. So I do laundry, clean my apartment and pack my bags for my Everest trip in the comfort of my air conditioning (I feel very guilty, but it was HOT).

 

Friday 4:00pm. Central Park South

I just completed a 30km circuit in 57:04 on my OLD bike. This was by far the best time I have ever had. Some friends come on over (who STILL don’t have power) and a good time is had by all. Total power is restored to the city by late evening. The subways still don’t work.


Saturday 12:00pm Corzen’s Office @ Union Square

The subways are open and I get down to the office and brought the servers back up. Life is back to normal.

posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 7:46:54 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [1] Trackback
# Thursday, August 14, 2003

You can go home again…

 

Tonight was a major homecoming, for many reasons. I was born in Flushing, Queens and spent the first 18 years of my life four miles from Shea Stadium, home of the New York Mets. My late Grandfather took me to my first Mets game in May of 1977 (a loss against the San Diego Padres, I still have the ticket.) I also worked for the Mets as a stadium vendor from 1987 to 1994. So I have been to at least one Mets game every year since 1977, and from ’87 to ’94 I must have worked over 500. Tonight was my first and only game of this season. So as my pal Kyle and I traveled on the 7 train to Shea tonight to watch the Mets take on Barry Bonds and the San Francisco Giants it was a bit of a homecoming for me.

 

But despite what my teammate Tom Halligan says, this blog is not all about me. Tonight was a very special Mets game for Mets fans. Superstar Mike Piazza officially came off the disabled list after missing the last three months of the season. So tonight was Mike’s homecoming and first game as a Met since early May.

 

Let’s just say that this game was one of the best games ever. I have never seen Mike Piazza hit a home run and most of the games I go to the Mets lose. Not tonight. Mike hit a 2 run home run and two singles for 5 RBIs in his first game back. The place went wild.

 

In addition to killing the first place SF Giants 9-2 tonight, there was insult added to injury. Pitcher Steve Trachsel hit an RBI double! That never happens non-baseball fans. Steve also pitched 7 2/3 solid innings.

 

But wait there’s more. Smart ass Barry Bonds (how dare he compare himself to Babe Ruth) had a horrible night. He actually got a hit but was tossed out trying to stretch it to a double. Then in the 8th inning, they pinch hit for him! I think that the last time someone pinch hit for Barry was in 1986.

 

The only bad point of the game was at the 7th inning stretch when RD Mom Eileen Crain called to tell me that Scott Hanselman and myself are in trouble due to some emails we sent on a private alias. I told her that she should chill out (which made her more mad) and had to call Scott to tell him the deal and then he called her and then I called her when I got home. We all love each other again, but I think it is kind of funny that news can travel so fast, from Redmond, to Flushing to Portland in a matter of 2 minutes without the aid of a computer.

 

Homecoming was fun and congratz again Mike.

posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 3:40:28 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [1] Trackback
# Wednesday, August 13, 2003

Ready for Tech*ED Malaysia

 

Next Friday I leave for Tech·Ed Malaysia held in Kuala Lumpur. This is the last major conference (and last TechEd) of the year for me.

 

We have a bunch of Regional Directors speaking:

 

Adam Cogan (Australia)

Tim Huckaby (US-San Diego)

Clemens Vasters (Germany)

Scott Hanselman (US-Portland)

 

Looking forward to some geek talk and time in KL with some of the other speakers and RDs. Looking forward to catching up with my buddy Adam Cogan, haven’t seen him since Dallas, far too long. I will get Scott Hanselman to do some drinking this time, no more lame crap from you Scott. Also looking forward to hacking some das Blog with Clemens while in KL (We will party too and his girlfriend, Pat, owes me a favor!)

 

I just got my machine all ready to go. Here are my sessions, the Stored Procedure session is the last time I talk about The Rozenshtein Method this year (and maybe forever if they let me talk about Yukon next year):



 
ASP .NET DataGrid Drill Down
Track: Developer Tools & Technologies   Code: DEV203
Room: Tun Dr Ismail A   Time Slot:
Tue, August 26 12:00 PM-1:15 PM
Speakers:
Stephen Forte
The ASP.NET DataGrid is an incredibly powerful and timesaving server control. Compared to "classic" ASP, with just a few lines of code you can load it with data from any data source. Formatting is accomplished by setting just a few properties. Gone are the days where you had to write lots of complex code to filter, sort and page through your data. In-place editing is also a breeze. This session will show you how easy it is to use the ASP .NET DataGrid and accomplish powerful .NET grids without sacrificing any flexibility and functionality.
 
 
.NET CF Database Development with SQL Server CE 2.0 ROI

Track: Enterprise Data Management   Code: EDM207
Room: Tun Hussien Onn A   Time Slot: Wed, August 27 4:00 PM-5:15 PM
Speakers: Stephen Forte
The decision to build an embedded application has been made. In today's environment, Return on Investment (ROI) so important that it is now a main decision making factor in deciding what platform to use. Choosing the platform that your developers can leverage their existing skills and code to build something on time and on budget is more important than a cool new language or feature. We will look at a case study of a .NET CF PocketPC application build for Professional NFL Scouts using SQL Server CE 2.0. See the ROI decisions for justifying the development effort, training the developers, leveraging current ADO code and libraries and maintenance decisions along with lines of code comparison to the other embedded tools.

Efficient and Secure Data Retrieval in Your Middle Tier Using Stored Procedures and ADO. NET.

Track: Developer Tools & Technologies   Code: DEV206
Room: Tun Dr Ismail A   Time Slot: Wed, August 27 5:30 PM-6:45 PM
Speakers: Stephen Forte
Using Stored Procedures is more efficient, secure, and easier to maintain than using in-line SQL in your application's middle tier. In this session we will look how to optimize using Stored Procedures for efficient and secure data retrieval in the middle tier of your web, windows, mobile and web services applications.

Using Regular Expressions in Windows Forms and ASP .NET

Track: Developer Tools & Technologies   Code: DEV315
Room: Tun Hussien Onn A   Time Slot: Thu, August 28 10:30 AM-11:45 AM
Speakers: Stephen Forte
Regular expressions, although popular in Perl and other UNIX/C-like languages, are unintelligible to those not familiar with them. Regular Expressions provide an incredibly powerful and compact way of matching and replacing text. Once you become serious about .NET, you'll find Regular Expressions staring you square in the face. They're there and they are very important, but the .NET documentation doesn't help much in learning about Regular Expressions and how to work with them in .NET. This session will introduce you to RegEx, using RegEx as data validation and manipulation.

posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 2:46:01 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [0] Trackback
# Tuesday, August 12, 2003

Strategic Inflection Point

 

Andy Grove, in his bestselling book, Only the Paranoid Survive, describes the nightmare moment every leader dreads--when massive change occurs and a company must, virtually overnight, adapt or fall by the wayside-- a “Strategic Inflection Point.” The arrival of the Internet was one such Strategic Inflection Point in the tech industry. I think that we are at another.

 

The Strategic Inflection Point is for consulting firms today and the issue is outsourcing off shore. Large companies are outsourcing almost their entire development work offshore. JPMorgan Chase just announced 50% of its IT will now be offshore (that is oh about 4,000 development jobs). I am not going to make the case for or against outsourcing, since it is happening anyway, apparently if you have a convincing argument against is, nobody is listening to it. So why fight it, it is happening and the jobs are not coming back (at least not to New York). This is why I left consulting in July 1999.

 

But wait, there is still money to be made in the contractor role. First let’s say that you are running a consulting shop today and are feeling the pinch of outsourcing. Let’s look at the notion that it takes 30% of the development effort to design the application, 30% to code, 30% to test and 10% to physically implement.

 

I always say that the strategic advantage you bring to the table in the 30/30/30/10 universe is the design. That is the MOST important phase of any project-period.  (Don’t make me go Steve McConnell on you!) What if you set up shop to do the 30% design and 10% physically implement?  You can make the case to do the design locally and then work with the outsourcers offshore to code and test. Set up a strategic partnership with several off shore players. Or better yet set up a JV. You can then take on a project management, relationship management and architecture guidance role. I have worked with overseas outsourcing and they tend to follow specs to the letter, so if your potential customer has made the decision to outsource overseas, they will be more inclined to do the design work very seriously.

 

Just an idea…

posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 8:24:02 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [0] Trackback

Mount Rainier called a threat

What were we thinking?

http://www.msnbc.com/news/950829.asp

posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 2:20:22 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [16] Trackback
# Monday, August 11, 2003

The age old question. If you ever saw one of my TechEd sessions or WebCasts, you know that I am a big fan of using the DataReader, especially when you are doing Web DataBinding. I am all about the firehose, forward only cursor. Today I actually replaced a DataReader with a DataSet, so I think that I need to tell the world the story. J

 

So my app that runs each Sunday morning to get data over HTTP and regex out stuff was bogging down. What happens is that I have a DataReader on the client that grabs the URLs, RegEx patterns, etc from a table for the main application “loop” to process the URLs and save the data to the database. There are about 30,000 records stuffed into the datareader and the stored procedure that powers it has to do a join to the table I am adding data into on each iteration of the loop to make sure that if the process stops and restarts, I don’t reprocess any duplicate URLs.

 

So all of a sudden (this code has been in production for 15 months, and on .NET 1.1 for 4 months) I started to get timeouts when I read data from the DataReader. Randomly this would happen, maybe once ever few weeks. I never really tracked it down. So this week I would run the process and every 10th record would cause a timeout. It was a timeout when I tried to read data from the next row in the DataReader, on the 10 row. I start and stop and this happened a zillion times. I spent a few minutes playing with some settings, etc, but more of the same. Oddly enough, setting the command behavior of the command that filled the reader to SequentialAccess did not even let me read data from the first record, it returned an error saying that it can only look at data starting at the 10th row.

 

I have not discovered the problem here, but it must have something to do with the buffer, I must have been stuffing way too much data in there. So I said DUH, let’s use a DataSet. Well I never looped through a DataTable before, so here is how it goes:

 

Private void DataTableLoop (DataTable dt) {

 

   foreach (DataRow dr in dt.Rows) {

      foreach (DataColumn dc in dt.Columns) {

         Response.Write (dr[dc] +”


”);

      }

    }

}

posted on Monday, August 11, 2003 3:54:28 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [4] Trackback

1:47:51

That was my triathlon time today! I am very happy. Teammate Andy Catlin got out of the water a few seconds before me (we both were at 15 minutes) and we had a hard transition (lots of rocks, and the bikes were far from the water). The bike was brutal (55 minutes). Almost all uphill, about 75% of the bike was uphill.  We had a 4 mile downhill at one point that was so super steep hill-I hit 47 miles per hour! That is almost as fast as a car… Transition from bike to run was not that bad. The run was hard, but ok, about 25-26 minutes. Andy finished about 5 minutes behind me, way to go dude…

posted on Monday, August 11, 2003 2:19:29 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [0] Trackback
# Saturday, August 9, 2003

Radio Uninstalled

Radio is completely off my machine. This is good since it was slow and clunky.

This is a day of liberation for Clemens and I. We are now using our Radio subscriptions just to upstream our RSS feeds to the Userland cloud dasBlog. Very cool. So now all the folks who have not resubscribed can still see the feeds at Radio, but please please please subscribe to the new feed.

What is funny is the Clemens said he did not have enough time to document everything, but his documentation is much better than Radio's! Besides my forthcoming cache code contribution to dasBlog, I have to say that Clemens rocks the house, so buddy, I owe you a few beers when we are in KL next week speaking at Tech·Ed Malaysia.

 

posted on Saturday, August 9, 2003 11:17:06 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [0] Trackback

Taper Day

 

Today I do nothing but sit at home, drink drink drink water and eat pasta. Tomorrow is the big race.

Last night I went out with some buds, including Rob Wlodarczyk who leaves for a job at the Evil Empire on Tuesday.

posted on Saturday, August 9, 2003 6:42:06 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #    Comments [2] Trackback