Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Today Garry talks about me whining on Mt. Rainer (not true!) as well as the David Sharp story and the commercialization of Everest. Read it here.

Wednesday, November 22, 2006 9:15:52 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [0]Trackback
 Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Part II of Gary's interview is here.

Tuesday, November 21, 2006 10:31:43 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [0]Trackback
 Monday, November 20, 2006

Check out Part I of my three part interview with mountain climber Garry Porter.

Monday, November 20, 2006 10:28:21 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [0]Trackback
 Thursday, June 01, 2006

By now you must know about the climber on Everest with severe altitude sickness up at 28,000’. The climbers walked past him and let him die, and the morality of Everest is under attack.

First, I say to all of those who judge the climbers on the mountain that day: you can only judge if you have been at altitude on a climb. I have been on the mountain and lived and worked with the Sherpa for a month; they took me into their homes. If a rescue was possible, they would have done it.

 

But there is no way to rescue someone from 28,000 feet. Absolutely no way! If you have such severe altitude sickness like he did, the 18 hour journey down to base camp would have killed him. (Plus how would you get him over the Khumbu Icefall without killing him?) Base Camp is not low enough to recover from Altitude Sickness since it is at 18,000’ and there is exactly 1/2 the oxygen in the air than at sea level. And that is assuming that he would have had a rescue from Base Camp, the last time a helicopter tried to go to base camp, exactly 3 years ago last week, it crashed and killed everyone on board. (Remember I brought a piece of the helicopter home?) So he would have had to go down, all the way to Namche Bizarre for a helicopter or plane.

 

 

If it was me some friends have asked?  I remember on September 11th we went over to the hospitals to give blood. What was amazing about that scene was that the Doctors set up a triage unit in the street. (Thankfully it was not necessary since there was so much less damage than there could have been.) But it gave me a lesson in triage. Sometimes it is ugly, but necessary.

 

 

I would have given some spare oxygen if I had some (which DID happen by 2 climbers and is not in many articles) and moved on. I walked past a climber in very bad shape at about 14,000 feet on Mt. Rainer. I stopped and said "Are you all right dude?" He said "No, but I will be ok, I’ll be going down with my guide when he returns from the summit." At that point lacking any emergency equipment and oxygen myself, not to mention the severe pain I was in, I moved on. (He did make it down, I checked.)

 

This is not the commercialization of Everest, this is the popularity of Everest, people want to do Everest and it gets crowded. Statistically more people die then in the 1960s when nobody was on the mountain. (Sir. Edmond Hillary is just bitter about that. Climbers disagree with his criticism.) Some "real" climbers want to keep the "paying" climbers like me off the mountain. Let me tell you, every "paying" climber I met was an amazing person in amazing shape with lots of experience. Anyone who trains, has some experience, and is willing to pay for an expedition should be allowed on the mountain. (Though the Government of Nepal should limit the permits it gives out.) They do have to understand the risks, you can be left behind.

 

Baseball, football, tennis, etc usually doesn’t involve death as one of the risk factors. Mountain climbing does. Get over it.

 

The death is a tragedy and sad, but unfortunately a risk we take when we climb Mt. Everest. One in seven climbers die above 28,000’. 

Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:28:13 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [0]Trackback
 Thursday, May 12, 2005

Today at 2 p.m. Nepal time, Ed Viesturs, reached the summit of Annapurna. He has failed in the past, but by getting here he has become the first American to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks (and all without oxygen, having been there I know how hard that is!). In a call from the summit, Ed said that it's "one of the happiest days of my life, one of the hardest days of my life."

Congratulations Ed!

Thursday, May 12, 2005 2:59:08 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [104]Trackback
 Thursday, August 19, 2004

My favorite city, Kathmandu is under a blockade by the Maoists rebels. This is a problem, the rebels have been targeting Kathmandu more and more in recent months (starting with the General Strike and such when I was there a year ago). A few days ago a hotel I stayed in in 2002 had 5 bombs go off in it. This is going to kill tourism to the South Col Route to Everest and force climbers to attempt Everest via the China side.

Thursday, August 19, 2004 9:25:43 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [10]Trackback
 Saturday, August 14, 2004

A year ago today was the blackout. Like most New Yorkers I can’t believe it was an entire year ago. For me personally the blackout was a turning point, a chain of events were set off for a truly amazing, unexpected and strange year that took me to Mt. Everest, Mt. McKinley (Denali) , Mt. Rainer, India, Egypt, Morocco, Malaysia rainforests, the bars of Bangkok, Hawaii, London, Paris, Amsterdam and so much more.

 

Looking back on a year you think about what matters most, what you learned, mistakes you made, etc. I learned a very important thing last year on Mt. Everest. Inner peace. After more than a month away from home, (a week in Malaysia and 4 weeks in Nepal), I had achieved inner peace in that bar in Lulka. It may have had something to do with the dirt cheap happy hour drinks, the bartender playing No Woman No Cry four times in a row for me, but it was more than that. I had time to reflect on life, the universe and everything. I found that nothing is more sacred than finding inner peace. You just can’t get it working 9-5 in a cube and worrying about picking up your dry cleaning and rushing to the downtown 6 train. Around Christmas time last year I contemplated moving to Lulka and buying that bar and making a living there. (Don’t underestimate my desire to get back there, one day this blog may be hosted in Nepal.)

 

Short of moving to Lulka or Goa, India, once a year I plan to find that inner peace somewhere, it doesn’t necessary have to be on a mountain, but that is a good place to start.

 

So this next year brings some crazy things. I get ready to travel back to Tech*ED Malaysia in KL with stops in Hong Kong, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Then off to Kilimanjaro in October and Antarctica in February. Somewhere, whether it is the Killing Fields of Phnom Penh or the highest point in Africa, I will find that inner peace somewhere. I just hope that all of you can try to do the same at your time and location. Don’t lose the desire to keep looking for it.

Saturday, August 14, 2004 12:42:26 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [15]Trackback
 Friday, February 06, 2004

You Have Photos

 

Last year I took about 4 gigs of photos around the world. I choose to post a select few and have put them on line yesterday (Finally!)

 

A few trips have already been up, you can get all the photos here.

 

The trip to Tunisia for the NDC 2003 in June was a lot of fun.  Beach, conference, Carthage, Tunis and lots of smoking J.

 

The next week I was speaking at TechED in Barcelona.

 

In August I scaled Mt. Rainer with Kevin and Joel.

 

In last August I spoke at TechEdD in Kuala Lumpur, before heading to Mt. Everest and India.

 

This year I promise to get my photos online faster.  Last week I spoke at the MDC in Egypt. Some photos are here.

Friday, February 06, 2004 2:11:20 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [14]Trackback
 Saturday, November 22, 2003

Leila Called Today

 

It was 11:46am and I was riding my bike against traffic down E89th Street after an exhausting training ride in Central Park and the cell phone rings with a strange caller ID. I stop my bike to the oncoming traffic on Lexington Avenue and answer it. It was Leila, Wally Berg’s wife and our base camp manager on the Everest trip. When you travel to Everest with someone, you have a lifelong bond that can’t be broken, and the minute I heard her voice it brought me back to the mountain. The sights, the sounds, the smells. Also the calmness and tranquility of life all came back.

She filled me in on the fact that while they did not bag the summit, the team did have a successful summit of the South Summit (the second highest peak in the world) and assured me that a good time was had by all despite Mother Nature getting in the way. She also said that the sherpas were STILL singing the songs I taught them and saying the sayings that I taught them-a part of me is still in Nepal and that makes me feel special since a part of Nepal is definitely still in me. She was calling to tell me that they found a new blue hat to send me (one that I whined all trip for that I wanted) and took down my new address to send it to me.

 

While it is impractical, everyone should go to Everest, or at least their own personal Everest.

 

Saturday, November 22, 2003 8:15:01 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [0]Trackback
 Tuesday, October 28, 2003

Two Chix and a Skillet

 

This weekend my good friends, Ned and Laura Gardner made it to the top of Katterskill High Peak (along with 5 of their closest friends). This was their 35th peak and 39th climb to gain entry to the Catskill 3500 Club. I did the honors and opened the Champagne at 3600’ and we had celebrated in the ice and snow. I personally have 12 more climbs before I can gain entry into the club, so we did two more peaks on Sunday, only after we had “Breakfast Grub” at Two Chix and a Skillet.

Tuesday, October 28, 2003 8:59:37 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [14]Trackback
 Thursday, October 16, 2003

Email From Maegan This Morning

They are going for the summit next Tuesday (10/20) or Wednesday (10/22). Everyone asks me "I thought you can only summit Everest in May." It is still possible to do it after May in the fall. Here are the stats, odds are against my team, but I know that they can do it! Out of 1924 successful summits on Everest, only 279 (18%) has actually occurred in the fall. Out of those 279, only 17 happened after October 20. The majority of the fall summits happened 1953-1993. Those years had 608 summits out of which 232 (38%) were made in autumn! Strange. From 1994 to 2003 however, there has been an explosion of 1320 summits - but a mere 47 (3.6%) in the fall.

So if she is going to summit and ski down, she will just have to forget the odds and go for it. Good luck and remember to come back-please.

 

Thursday, October 16, 2003 6:27:37 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [16]Trackback
 Monday, October 06, 2003

 

The Buddhists say that the Earth has a song and that to hear it, you have to go to the Himalayas, away from the noise and commotion of the busy world. They also say that once you hear it, you don’t want to stop hearing it. Well, I heard it and want nothing more to hear it again and again.

 

While I was on my trek, I learned a few lesions from the simple life of the Khumbu Valley and the power of nature on the mountain. Here they are with some commentary following:

 

  1. Live your dreams
  2. Just do it
  3. Keep it simple
  4. Be thankful of what you have/make the most of what you have
  5. Its not about you

 

  1. Live your dreams. The first lesson that I learned was to live your dreams the best you could. I have wanted to go to Mt. Everest since I was 7 years old. I have finally did and when I got there a little voice in my head said “What were you waiting for?” Life is too short, live your dreams. No excuses, make it happen.
  2. Just do it. Damn those Nike people are smart. There were a few scary things on this trek. The first time I saw the Khumbu glacier, it looked very intimidating. A friend told me, “Just do it.” Just have no fears and inhibitions and face your fears and challenges head on. Once again, life is just way too short.
  3. Keep it Simple. When I was trekking in the Khumbu valley there were no cars, roads, phones, etc. I now fully appreciate the term “dirt poor.” The day of the week doesn’t matter much to these people. For the first time in my life I went days not knowing what day of the week it was or the day of the month. The folks in the valley are so poor, yet so happy. But you can see the look of joy on the kids faces living a hard but uncomplicated life. I noticed if you keep life as simple as possible, your life will be good.
  4. Be thankful of what you have. It is impossible to come to Khumbu and not pick up this concept, Once again the people are poor, yet they make do and are very happy. They make the most of what they have, don’t complain and live great lives. It may take 2 hours to cook the evening family meal, but it is a social event just preparing it and the family and friends bond while preparing and eating.
  5. Its not about you. This is the most important lesson you can learn from coming here. There is a whole universe out there, don’t spend too much time thinking about yourself and your needs. In the Khumbu there is an overwhelming sense of community (to the point that I still feel it here in New York). In the west we live in such a materialistic and selfish society, take it down a notch and see what you can give to the community at large.

 

Monday, October 06, 2003 11:28:21 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [10]Trackback
 Monday, September 29, 2003

 

 

Ok, now that I am home here is the report since I was not able to blog each day.

 

First let me give you the skinny of the plan. The plan was as follows: my buddy Kevin Collins (SQL Server Mobile Edition PM) and I were planning to trek to Mt. Everest Base Camp. Most trekkers hike for 2 weeks and then touch their toe at Base Camp and turn back. Kevin and I wanted to spend some serious time at Base Camp. The problem is that nobody is allowed to camp at Base Camp unless you have a climbing permit and the Nepal government charges $60,000 US for one. Kevin and I are not rich, so what we did was hook up with an Expedition that was going to the summit (they should summit in the middle of October.) So we left the US knowing that we would have a unique experience of being on a real summit expedition and then sleeping two nights at base camp. The expedition was lead by the climbing superstar Wally Berg (4 summits under his belt) and has 4 other clients (including a woman who is going to ski down and be the fist woman to so.) Here is the full story of our three weeks in Nepal (photos up soon, so check this page again in about a week):

 

 

Day 1. “The Talk”

We arrived in Kathmandu and got the talk about the expedition from Wally. Was so cool to hear about his summit plans and how it all works. Being my second time to Nepal, it was nice to come here with a Visa already in my passport this time (note to people who are coming here in the future, get your Visa in advance, trust me!).

 

Day 2. “Burning Dead Bodies”

Today was a rest day and day for others to arrive in Kathmandu, so we spent the time sightseeing Kathmandu. We visited a few sacred Buddhist sights and a Hindu death ritual cremation sight.


Day 3. “Start Walking”

Today we flew a twin otter 15 seat plane to the town of Lulka (9,000’) to begin our trek. The flight was cool and most of the empty seats were filled with our gear and lots of climbing equipment that was going by Yak straight to Base Camp. The airport at Lulka is from the twilight zone since the runway was short and faced totally uphill at about a 75 degree angle, so landing was an experience. From here we begin the trek to Base Camp that is over 60 miles and almost 10,000’ elevation gain away. From Lulka on there are no roads, TVs, phones (land lines, Sat phone only), machinery (all human or animal power) and a very simple way of life in the Khumbu Valley. Some towns have no running water and all supplies are carried by human or yak power.

We trekked for about 3 hours down to the town of Phakding (9,500’) over beautiful waterfalls and mountain views.

 

Day 4. “Running with Sherpas”

Today we trekked from Phakding (9.500’) to the major town (maybe 100 buildings) of Namche Bazar (11,500’). Since I was feeling in such good shape I went ahead with two sherpas (Our Sirdar and Camp II Cook) and a climber. They travel very fast, but at this elevation I am not worried about getting sick. Our Sirdar wanted to hear all about New York. We trekked fast and cleared Namche hill very fast and got to Namche very early and spent time in a tea house cleaning up, doing laundry and took a shower!

 

Day 5. “Glacier Melt”

Today was a rest day for acclimation to the altitude. It was spent trying to use the internet over a Sat phone (a very painful experience), hiking up the hill to see our first glance of Mt. Everest and eating “Glacier Melts” in the Khumbu Lodge. (A glacier melt is a deep fried Mars bar.)

 

Day 6. “Sherpa Home”

Today we hiked from Namche to Pangboche (12,700’) and stayed at our Sirdar’s home. Once again I am ahead with the sherpas and faster climbers, but while I got to the destination early, I was pooped, so decided to stick with the main group from this elevation on.

 

Day 7. “Blessing by a Lama”

Today we were blessed by a Lama at the Pangboche Monastery in a delightful ceremony. It was so unique since he blessed the climbing team for their climb and we got to witness that part too. Maegan who is skiing down the mountain had a very moving experience when the Lama spoke directly to her-which affected us all.

We then trekked on to Pheriche (14,000’) over some great hills with views of all of the Himalaya. From the next 8 days or so, I spend over 14,000’, higher than almost anything in the Continental United States.

 

Day 8. “Please don’t Hypnotize me to have Sex with Yaks”

An overnight rest day for acclimation so pretty much dominated by some Frisbee games and a hypnosis session led by the climber David Burger. I was joking that can he hypnotize me to spend less time thinking about the opposite sex and someone suggested that I get hypnosis to start liking Yaks. (Sorry Dennis, I still like girls.) We start to test our Oxygen levels in our blood, I come in at about 86%, which is great for 14,000’ but would put me in the Intensive Care Unit at Sea Level. My body is doing great with the altitude.

 

Day 9. “Too Many Deaths”

For every 6 people who summit Everest, 1 dies. Today we visited on the trail from Pheriche to Loboche (16,000) a memorial site for those who died on Mt. Everest. If you read “Into Thin Air”, Scott Fisher’s memorial was quite prominent, he was popular with the Sherpas who made this memorial-and was also Wally’s best friend, so it was a solemn visit. I spend about two hours trekking alone before Kevin catches up with me and all I could hear is the river and my footsteps, I used this time to contemplate life.

Today we also meet Magi on the trail, a random trekker from the United Kingdom who has been traveling around the world for a year.

 

Day 10. “Just What is Spotted Dick?”

Today we trekked to Gorak Shep (16,800’) to stage our assault on climbing the peak of Kala Pattar (18,700’) the next day and then trekking to Everest Base Camp (17,400). We discover a dessert for sale called “Spotted Dick” and Wally asks “Just what is Spotted Dick” which Magi replies that it is a traditional English dessert. Since it is freeze dried, Gary bought some for us to have at Base Camp. Gorak Shep is not really a town, but just two lodges on the side of a river.

 

Day 11. “Game Day”

Today we woke at 4am and started the climb up Kala Pattar at 18,700’ (but my altimeter said only 18,300’). It was a very hard climb, just about a technical climb for the last 100’ or so with 3,000’ drops into Tibet if you slip. We had to crawl over rocks and ice and snow to get to the top. We watched the sunrise and had a spectacular paranoiac view of the entire range. Saw Everest and Base Camp, the Khumbu Icefall, Pumori and Nuptse and most of the other 8000 meter peaks. This was one of the most amazing sights in my life.

We spent the rest of the day trekking over the Khumbu Glacier to Base Camp (17,400’).  The views of the rest of the glacier were amazing, rocks and ice just falling into glacial lakes. It was very slippery to trek over, so it took well over 4 hours. We spent some time viewing the remains of the helicopter that crashed in May 2003, I stole a piece of the debris for a momento. Upon arrival at Base Camp Kevin’s and my tent was on top of a ice and rock pile at the foot dangerous Khumbu Icefall. We got to sleep at night with the constant sound of the glacier moving and constant avalanches (they occur every 20 minutes or so.) What a sound show.

 

Day 12. “Puja Day at Base Camp”

What a day. We spend the day at Base Camp and witness a Sherpa Buddhist Puja to bless the Icefall and climbers. A totally unique experience, the Sherpas will not begin the climb until the Puja is completed. A Puja is a Buddhist religious ceremony. The monk chants paryers while we throw flower and rice and reflect. We all get prayer strings blessed by the Dali Lama.

It gets so hot that Kevin sneaks a photo of me walking around Base Camp shirtless trying to get a tan (which resulted in a massive sunburn). My body is feeling great that I did not realize I was spending the entire day at over 17,400’ on top of a glacier and at the foot of the largest icefall in the world.

Since we were the only climbing permit, we not only have base camp to ourselves, but all of our Sherpas are the cream of the crop. It was so educational and moving to talk to them and learn about the 1996 tragedy first hand (many were there).

Gary, Maegan, Grant, Ama Timber, the dog and I eat the spotted dick after supper.

 

Day 13. “Snowball Fight at the Top of the World”

Today we wake up to 6+ inches of snow at camp and have a snowball fight with the sherpas. Too bad, but we do have to leave Base Camp today, after 3 days and two nights there. We trek 6 hours through the snowstorm and over the icy glacier all the way back to Loboche (16,800’). I got very friendly with the climbers and it was hard to say goodbye. I lent my gloves to David and he is going to wear them on summit day and Meagan scored my down jacket to leave at Camp II.

 

Day 14. “I need a new Sherpa”

Today we trek down from Lobache back to our Pangboche (12,700’) and I was feeling so good that I decided to race my sherpa a few times at 15,000’ without packs and WON. Kevin and I were so strong that Nima our Sherpa was worn out (we have photos to prove this.) The air is still feeling very thick.

 

Day 15. “Hillary School

Today we trek down to Kumjum (12,500’) and visit the Hillary School and take lots of photos with little kids. Today it hits me why I came here in the first place, seeing these kids with nothing, but just so damn happy.

 

Day 16. “Back to Namche”

Today we walk down to Namche Bazar and rest at 11,500’. Do some shopping for prayer flags and other fun stuff. I made an attempt to check my email on the sat phone computer and it was bad, very bad.

 

Day 17. “Back to Lulka”

Today we did a long haul all the way back to Lulka. It starts to pour but the return to Lulka was glorious, all the porters were with me and singing “Do a little dance, make a little love, get down tonight.”

 

Day 18. “Waiting for the Fog”

Totally fogged in at Lulka, no flights allowed in our out. The military has a curfew of 6:30pm due to the Maoists rebels and walks around with machine guns pointed at you. We comply with the curfew.

 

Day 19. “No Woman No Cry”

More damn fog. I am starting to lose it until we discover happy hour at the one local bar that also has a pool table and a bartender who will do anything I say (including playing Bob Marley’s “No Woman No Cry” 4 times in a row). I beat Dennis at 9-ball and also get incredibly drunk. I also get Mihn Sherpa very drunk, hard drinks were 2 for 1 and about $2-so $1 shots basically-you do the math. Getting super drunk at about 10,000’ is fun.

 

Day 20. “Back to Kathmandu-More dangerous than Everest”

We finally make it back to Kathmandu on the only flight in and out of Lulka for the last 3 days. They also close the airport just after we leave, so we are so lucky. Get to see the first road and car, etc in Kathamndu, however there is a Maoist revolt in Kathmandu and yet another curfew, men with machine guns, etc. This time there are battles with the good guys and bad guys and stuff gets blown up and power constantly goes out. No cars on the streets. Our van that picks us up hides their liscence plates (so the Maoists won’t know who they are) and spray paints “Tourists” on the car, not sure if this makes us a target of snipers or not. We survive and fly off to Delhi the next day.

 

 

 

 

 

Monday, September 29, 2003 2:37:29 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [9]Trackback
 Sunday, September 21, 2003

Well the Maoists and 3-day general strike is over but it left Kathmandu a mess. At least two bombs went off yesterday and power was lost several times. The Army was all around the city all day today. Garbage and such is everywhere.

Well the trek to Everest was not as dangerous as the Maoists in Kathmandu, except for a sivere sunburn and about 22 pound weight loss I am fine. No altitude sickness (only went under 19,000') and no "runs" or anything like that. I did accidentally delete all the messages in my inbox, so I have no idea who sent me email when I was away. Oh well, ORCSweb Team to the rescue (Like always)!

Off to India, more on the trip soon!

Sunday, September 21, 2003 4:43:53 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [24]Trackback
 Saturday, September 20, 2003

After 21 days of hiking in the fresh air without hearing any automobiles or seeing any paved roads, phones, electricity and all work was done by human power or animal power, it was kind of strange getting back to the busy city of Kathmandu today to witness a 3-day general strike. 2.2 million people live here but a general strike because of the Maoist rebellion has reduced the city to a standstill, no cars, and sometimes even no power.

Soon I will be reunited with my laptop and have a high-speed connection in India, move news to come...

Saturday, September 20, 2003 7:12:05 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [14]Trackback
 Tuesday, September 16, 2003

Snowball Fight at the Top of the World (17,400')

We all made it and are feeling great. Summited Kala Patar at 18, 500' and went to Base Camp (17,400'). Spent three days and two nights at Everest Base Camp. Before we left, out last morning we had 6 inches of new snow and the sherpas (16 of them!) attacked us in a snowball fight, it was not pretty.

Internet sucks, so more detals later in the week...

Tuesday, September 16, 2003 4:50:36 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [2]Trackback
 Friday, September 05, 2003

Rest day at Namche Bizarre (11,500')

We arrived yesterday at the sherpa village of Namche Bizarre and today is a rest day to deal with the altitude. Civilization, sort of, shower, internet (dial up speeds) and a warm bed to rest up for the push to base camp. Tomorrow we head to higher elevations well over 12,500' and eventually to 19,000' over the glaicer down to Base Camp (17,500') next week.

We did an early morning stroll to the outskirts of town to see the spactular mountaion views (photos to come when I get home) and got the first glimpse of Everest today, what a sight. We are still about 5 or 6 days out, depending on how strong we all are.

Wally got the permit to summit (at $60,000 US) for the climbers, so they are very excited it is a very special time, since we are the only expidition on the mountian with a summit permit. Since Wally has a permit, Kevin and I get to spend some significant time at Base Camp and witness the Sherpa Puja at the icefall on September 12th.

 

Friday, September 05, 2003 4:01:24 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [3]Trackback
 Tuesday, September 02, 2003

Dinner at Rum Doodle (4,500')

So many Everest summit trips have a farewell dinner at the Rum Doodle the night they leave Kathmandu and we are no different. A great night was had by all and we leave tomorrow to start our trek. I am all packed and ready to deal with the altitude, etc. Wish me luck!

Tuesday, September 02, 2003 2:31:17 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [2]Trackback
 Monday, September 01, 2003

 Staging in Kathmandu (4,500')

Wally met with us today for the “talk” about the ins and outs of the expedition. Also met the climbing sidar Sherpa today, a very impressive man who has summitted 4 times. We fly to Lukla Wednesday to start the trek. We will be arriving at Mt. Everest Base Camp on September 11th, a strange day to make it there. A Buddhist ceremony early in the morning on the 12 marks the official beginning of the ascent for the rest of the team. Kevin and I will be spending at least 2 nights at Base Camp helping the expedition get settled in.

Here are the climbers bios:

Wally Berg, Canmore, Alberta

A four-time Everest summitter, Wally Berg is BAI’s founding director and head guide. His achievements in planning, organizing and guiding successful mountaineering expeditions have established him as one of the world’s foremost expedition leaders.

David Burger, Boulder, Colorado

David Burger has guided throughout the world for decades and has climbed to above 6,000m more than 50 times. In 2002, he was part of the successful BAI guiding team on Ama Dablam. When he is not guiding, David is an executive coach and senior team builder.

Maegan Carney, Seattle, Washington

 Two-time World Freeride/Extreme Skiing Champion Maegan Carney aims to be the first American and first woman to complete a ski descent of Mt. Everest. Now making her home in Chamonix, France, her passion is for climbing peaks and skiing obscure, steep couloirs. In 2002, Carney made the first descent of 24,000-foot Cholatse Peak in Nepal.

Brad Johnson, Ridgway, Colorado

Brad Johnson has climbed 25 peaks between 17,000ft. and 27,000ft. high via 30 different routes and summitted Cho Oyu in 1999. He has participated in two expeditions to Makalu and K2. With over 20 years experience as a climbing and trekking guide, Brad spends much of each year leading mountaineering expeditions in Peru.

Garry Porter, Olalla, Washington

Since retiring from Boeing, Garry Porter has dedicated much of his life to mountaineering – and being a grandfather of four! He has reached the summit of Aconcagua, Denali, Cotopaxi, Island Peak, Huayna Potosi, Illimani and Ama Dablam with BAI in 2002.

Monday, September 01, 2003 2:02:27 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [9]Trackback

To The Summit and Safe Return

 

Train Harder. Climb Longer.

 

After more than 8 months of preparation, Kevin and I are in Kathmandu to begin our trek to Mt. Everest. We are waiting for the other 5 trekkers and 4 climbers. (who are going to the top!)

 

To all of my friends and family reading this, you know me well, I will be safe. Thanks for your support. And Dad, one day I will return to this mountain with you.

 

 

 

Monday, September 01, 2003 12:28:18 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [11]Trackback
 Sunday, August 31, 2003

Bangkok Day 2

After sleeping in I got up and got a haircut for about $0.30 and did my laundry that piled up while in KL.

Spent the day seeing the sights I have not seen before, spent a lot of time in the National Museum. Waiting for Kevin Collins to arrive in from Tokyo tonight then one more night of fun before we head to Kathmandu tomorrow!

Sunday, August 31, 2003 8:01:42 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [17]Trackback
 Saturday, August 30, 2003

I ain't goin' out like no punk-bitch

 

It seems that in KL they really like House of Pain’s Jump Around and the DJ at one club last night mixed it in with Kriss Kross’ Jump for an insane party. Add that to the almost local Panjabi, of course mixed with Jay-z. After an epic night of partying in KL with fellow speaker Chris Featherstone, it was time to say goodbye to KL.

 

So I have arrived in Bangkok and have to move from speaking/working mode to R&R mode for the weekend before moving into trekking to Everest mode on Monday. Bangkok is one of those places that I just seem addicted to and have to visit if I am in the region (Paris is another). Fun, cheap, and very friendly, Bangkok has lots to offer everyone including many Royal and Buddhist sights, awesome shopping (can you say custom clothing) and of course the wild and crazy nightlife. Now my third time to Bangkok in the last year and a half, I already know the cool places to party down at Pat Pung, so if any of you are down at Lucifers’ tonight or tomorrow, come dance with me to Indian Hip-Hop and a little old school Irish Rap (they like House of Pain here too)... And Tom, I am wearing my purple shirt that you hate so much…

Saturday, August 30, 2003 9:40:56 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #    Comments [9]Trackback
 Sunday, August 17, 2003

The Big E

So many people have asked many different types of questions about my trek up Mt. Everest (starting after TechEd on August 30th) that I decided to do a brain dump here. Ken Getz's sister asked two important questions here:

* How do people go to the bathroom when tied down to sleep on the mountain?

* How do people cook stuff up there? Like how do they boil water for coffee? Is there like a platform to cook on?

 

My answer:

Well you are not actually tied down, the tent is “tied in” to an anchor so if there is an avalanche or massive wind, the tent doesn’t blow away. So here are the options: 

  1. There is the notion of a “pee bottle”, I can leave it at that. J
  2. If you have to do the other, you can just go outside and risk it, but if the wind is strong and there is a really high grade of steepness, you can put on your harness and rope on in to an anchor.  

Cooking is always a challenge at high elevation. At the lower elevations you use portable camping propane stoves that porters or sherpas carry. At higher elevations, it gets really hard to cook with propane over 18,000 feet (the magic elevation for a lot of reasons since at 18,000 there is exactly ½ the oxygen in the air then at sea level. This is why most major base camps for major mountains are at  <18, 000, Everest is at 17,600 for example.)  So you don’t cook much over 18,000 feet, but at the same time you also don’t spend that much time at that elevation, you really use base camp as a “base” not because it is on the base of the mountain. You eat a lot of packaged foods and energy bars. Usually for coffee/tea at higher elevations, you use a thermos. We have some thermoses that can keep coffee/tea hot for 24 hours. 

I bet you also want to know how to shower and clean our clothes. Clothes are simple, we boil water and then when it cools wash our clothes in a bowl each night and hang it do dry, we wear the “quick dry” athletic gear so it dries overnight. Showers just don’t happen, so we wash also with those bowls and at lower elevations set up a little “wash area” like in the military and shower under a watering can type of thing.  

What is funny is that a lot of people walk around base camps in their underwear and flip flops during the day-because they are doing laundry, I know I always do. If you hike fast and get there in the afternoon, it is warm and your clothes are sweaty. If you want to sleep in clean clothes (no time for laundry in the AM before hike), you have to wash in the afternoon and hang all afternoon. So a lot of people wash everything they have dirty, including the clothes on their back.

Also, Kevin and I are going with Wally Berg, super famous Everest dude (see his world famous NatGeo photos here. He is also getting married on the trek at Namche Bizarre, look for my photos and bolog entries after the trek.) Wally has summited about 6 or 7 times and was the guy who took the GPS up in 1989 and they reevaluated Everest's height based on his readings. Wally's recomedation gear list besides the ice axes and crampons type stuff for us to bring are:

FOOTWEAR 

 

q       Running Shoes  - for travel & easy walking

q       Hiking Boots - leather with sturdy mid-sole and a vibram sole. ½ or ¾ shank, boots should be warm and fit well over light and heavy sock combination.  Fit is much more important than brand.  Take time to select a pair that fits, and break them in well. (Asolo, Merrill, Scarpa Delta M-3, Sportiva TRK)

q       Gaiters – Short, simple gaiters are best (Outdoor Research Rocky Mt. Low) Gore-Tex gaitors are not necessary.

q       Sport Sandals – Excellent in camp during evenings when worn over wool socks, Perfect for living in tea shops, Sherpa lodges and for visiting monasteries.  (Teva)

q       Down or synthetic camp booties - optional luxury, any brand with thick foam soles

q       Lightweight Socks - 3 pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Wigwam, Fox River)

q       Heavy Socks - 3 pairs Synthetic/Wool Blend (Smartwool, Bridgedale, Wigwam, Fox River)

 

CLOTHING